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August 04, 2022
Amirisu Lace Shawl KAL 2022 Fair Information
July 22, 2022
Knitting for Beginners!
July 13, 2022
The series "Knitting for Beginners!"
The 6th is about the worries that everyone hits when they start knitting.
・The stitches are twisted. ・The back knitting becomes loose.
And so on, there were many questions from everyone.
Youtube is here!
https://youtu.be/Yx3q_4AmSqw
We also accept questions from beginners. If you want to get rid of the blur, please write to us.
https://amirisu.typeform.com/to/IYyCTYFV
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Question 1: How to hold the needle. American style or French style, which one is recommended for beginners?
There are no recommendations. Choose the one that is easy for you.
The American style is a knitting method in which the thread is put on the right hand. The right hand (which is the dominant hand for many people) can pull the string a lot, so it tends to be tight. However, since the thread is pulled and attached to the stick, it is easy to align the eyes.
The French style is a way of knitting by putting the thread on the left hand like this. I'm French. Keep the tension on the thread on your finger and pick it up with the needle in your right hand. It is often looser than the American style.
Which one is faster to knit depends on the skill of the knitter. Some people knit very quickly in the American style, and there are many people who knit the eyes neatly in the French style.
I think it would be a good idea to try both and practice the knitting method that you feel is easy to do.
And there are knitting styles that are neither American nor French. Even if such a student comes, I will not fix it. Any kind of knitting method is OK as long as it can be knit neatly.
Question 2: Do you use both American and French styles when knitting braided patterns?
I think it's probably the quickest to use both the American and the French style with the yarn on both hands.
However, I only knit my knitting patterns in the French style. For example, if you are weaving two colors, put two threads on your left index finger slightly apart, pick up the thread you need and knit.
This is fine if the color changes every 2-3 stitches, but if the same color continues for a while, it will be difficult to keep the two threads on your fingers with the same tension. At that time, apply one by one. When the color changes, change the string you put on your finger.
It may seem like a bit of a hassle, but in the end, it's faster and more beautiful than knitting in the American style, which I'm not used to.
If you think about it, you don't need to knit so fast. The beauty of the finished product is more important than speed. Choose the method that best knits for you.
Question 3: It is difficult to keep the tension of the thread on the finger in the French style.
It's difficult, isn't it?
I keep the tension by pinching the thread between my ring finger and little finger. Some people have double threads wrapped around their pinky or ring finger. It varies from person to person and there is no standard method.
However, maintaining tension is very important.
I always tell beginners that the knitting method is determined not by the movement of the right hand, but by the tension of the thread in the left hand and the angle of the needle.
If the tension is maintained, it will be easier to remove the stitch from the needle and the size of the stitch will be kept constant. This is because the tension when the needle is pulled out determines the shape of the thread along the needle. I think that people who have eyes aligned always have a constant tension.
As long as your own little world is complete, that's fine, so it's difficult, but you have to find the correct answer yourself. For that, let's practice.
Knitting is like riding a bicycle. Please practice and learn your own "how to ride knitting".
Question 4: Compared to the front side, the back side is looser.
It's not just you! I'm also a fan of loose knitting.
I think that many people end up looser on the back side because the thread on the back side cannot be pulled much due to its structure.
So, I think that it should be taken as a gauge. Even if the front is tight and the back is loose, as long as the gauge is established, it will be fine.
(But wouldn't that make the fabric stripy?)
If the looseness is so different that the stripes are worrisome, you have no choice but to consciously keep the tension tight.
I also loosen it when I let it go, so I pull it carefully and knit it. This is also practice.
Question 5: I'm sad that the length of the thread end may be insufficient for making the stitches on the fingers. What should I do now?
This was discovered by Ms. Meri, but if you run out of thread halfway through, you can use new thread to add stitches. Even if the stitches are not connected, if you keep knitting the second and third rows, you won't have to worry about the boundaries.
If you run out, just cut the thread and start over.
I'm researching because there may be other ways to do it. I'll let you know when I find it!
And if you don't want to run out of threads, this is absolutely safe! You should leave the end of the thread out as long as possible.
Question 6: Do you make stitches by putting two needles together? Can I have just one?
In Japanese knitting books, it is often written that two needles should be put together to make stitches.
But it's not popular anymore!
Please do it with one needle that is a little thicker than specified.
The reason why I wrote to do it in two is because I don't want to make it tight. My guess is that in the past, it was difficult to get people to buy a lot of needles, so I thought, "Wouldn't it be better to combine two needles to create a loose stitch with the same needle?" I think.
But isn't it too loose if you do it with two? ?
Recently, replacement circular needles have become popular, and everyone has a lot of needles. So, for example, if it was written to be made in No. 6, why don't you increase the number by about No. 2 and do it with No. 8?
So, when you knit the next row, change it to size 6 and you will get a nice texture.
Question 7: What should I do to avoid twisting when making loops?
There is no better way! You just have to clip it, spread it out properly, and watch carefully to make sure it doesn't get twisted.
However, I think that everyone always fails in the second step. Isn't it twisted at the time of the 1th step? ? I think they are looking at it very seriously. But I didn't carelessly watch the second stage.
At the beginning of knitting, the width of the knitted fabric is thin, so it is difficult to understand, and some people twist it at the moment of knitting the second row. So, after knitting for a while, check again to see if it's twisted!
I think you'll be fine as long as you check regularly. I've only twisted once or twice in my life.
Also, I think it would be difficult with a magic loop. It seems better to do it with a four-pin needle.
And there is also a method of making a loop after several rows of flat knitting. Only the flat-knitted part needs to be slightly unstitched, and it is very comfortable because it will never be twisted. This method is safe when you have 300 or 400 stitches.
I can't knit because the stitches are twisted and my heart is broken! This is the recommended method for such people.
Question 8: If you make a stitch, the twist of the thread will be untwisted. What should I do.
There is no way to solve it. That's what it is.
It can't be helped that the yarn gets tangled in two or three. Anyone can do that, so please try thinking that it can't be helped.
Thank you, Tokuko-sensei! Next time I will talk about finishing.
what are you knitting now? 〜Dawa Knitted with mYak Baby Yak Lace〜
July 05, 2022
Knitting for Beginners! ~About Gauge~
June 09, 2022
Knitting for Beginners!
Mr. Tokuko had a strong desire to have a gauge round, so in the fifth installment, the gauge is important! Get the game! This is the story.
Youtube is here !
We are still accepting questions from beginners through the form .
Question 1: What made you want to talk more about Gage?
To be honest, there are a lot of people who don't pick up the gauge! Because I want you to understand the meaning of the game properly.
Taking the gauge is the work of knitting a swatch and checking how many rows there are in 10cm x 10cm.
When a designer writes a pattern, he always uses a gauge to determine how many stitches and rows he will knit, and then calculates the overall size based on that.
If you start knitting without a gauge, the tragedy will be that it will not be the ideal shape that the designer worked hard to create, and it will be too small or too big. Sad, isn't it?
Question 2: I find it troublesome to take gauges. Is it not okay to take a gauge of 5 cm x 5 cm and double it by calculation?
I understand how you feel, but let's start with a proper 10cm.
The stitches are not stable at the beginning of the knitting or at the edge of the knitted fabric, so if you want to be more certain, knit 15cm x 15cm and measure in the middle.
If you are used to it, 5cm x 5cm is fine.
Question 3: What should I do if either the number of stitches or the number of rows does not match?
It's hard to answer because it depends on the number of steps and the patterns.
For horizontal knitting designs, you need to match the number of rows tightly.
For top-down or bottom-up designs, you can adjust the number of rows while knitting.
However, if there is an increase or decrease, it is necessary to pay attention to the timing. If you blindly tweak the number of steps, the timing of the raglan stitches of the top-down sweater will not match, resulting in a strange shape, and the overall balance will be disturbed.
The only solution is to recalculate. Therefore, it is best to somehow match the number of stitches and the number of rows to the gauge.
Therefore, what I would like to recommend to beginners is to find a designer who matches your gauge.
There is bound to be a designer with a good chemistry that says, "This person always fits the gauge!"
In general, men are more powerful than women, so their hands are tighter. Also, the American style tends to be tighter than the French style. If you think, "I can't get a gauge this tight!", it's probably because the knitting method is different from mine. Unfortunately, I disagree with the designer. Level up, then challenge the person's design.
Question 4: When raising or lowering the number of needles to match the gauge, do you try changing by one number?
Since it doesn't change much around No. 1, I recommend that you try to change No. 2.
It's just a very unfortunate story, but there are almost no people who can knit according to the gauge even if they have taken the gauge. Because things change when you lose your temper.
Then there's no point in taking the game! It is said, but that is not the case.
I want you to take a gauge to know your habits .
I always find the actual knitted fabric looser than the gauge. Knitting a small square seems to make your hands tense and tight.
Therefore, I start knitting with the feeling that it will actually be one or two stitches looser than the result of removing the gauge.
The designated gauge was 22nd, and when the gauge was taken, it was 24th.
→ In this case, it will actually be 22, so I think there is no problem.
Taking the gauge every time is to know your own habits. By knowing the difference between the gauge and the actual knitted fabric, you will be able to make the size you want . Be sure to pick up the game! ! !
Question 5: Do you leave the gauged swatches unundone and compare them with the actual knitted fabric?
If it's something you design yourself, be sure to keep it.
When knitting other people's patterns, I will not leave.
I think it's safe to leave it at first, but it's okay if you don't get used to it. Once you get used to it, you'll be able to change the needles while you're knitting to get the gauge just right.
Question 6: Knitted swatches twirl. Should I garter the ends and lay them flat?
All you have to do is stretch and measure, so there is no problem even if you are spinning. I do not mind.
What you shouldn't do is make assumptions.
Try pulling it out a bit or shrinking it. There are many people who want to get closer to the designated gauge and move it just a little. But no! Leave it as it is and measure it as it is. That's the cardinal rule.
Question 7: Do the swatches drain and then gauge?
There is a thread that shrinks and stretches when water is passed through it.
When I write a pattern myself, if I use a thread that changes a lot when I run the water through it, I write an alert saying, "Because it shrinks, please measure both before and after running the water through it." If there is an alert, follow it obediently.
If it's a normal thread, it's a good idea to apply a steam iron to it and see how much it changes before and after applying it.
Lace patterns should be run through water and spread out to see how they look.
I don't like having to do a lot of work before knitting, but knitting takes a lot of time. Therefore, I would like you to assign one day to the game day.
Taking all possible measures is the first step to making a good product.
Question 8: For designs with multiple patterns, for example, do you knit both swatches for the knitted part and the patterned part?
I would really like to have both, but it's difficult.
If both gauges are on the pattern, basically I think that if you match the knitted one, the knitted gauge will also match.
Designs with different patterns for each part make it difficult even for designers to keep gauges properly. I think that it is safe to match even one place somewhere.
Question 9: If the design is knitted in a circle, such as socks, do you also knit the swatch in a circle?
Many people use different hands when knitting in a circle and when knitting back and forth.
If you know how much you change, double-knit swatches are fine.
I know my habit of knitting in a circle to make my hands tighter, so I start knitting assuming it will actually be tighter than the double-knit gauge.
And even if you knit a swatch with a loop smaller than the actual gauge, it's hard to say that you're knitting a definite gauge, because the swatches for knitting large and small loops are different.
If you don't cast on the number of stitches according to the pattern and knit it, you can't know the true gauge.
That's why I always keep statistics on what happens when I'm knitting a circle.
I think that improving your knitting means that you can knit from start to finish with the assumed gauge and finish it in a good shape .
In order to do so, we must accumulate data by observing what we have knitted every day .
Again, the act of taking the gauge first to know your habits is very important.
Question 10: Anything else left out?
It seems that some people think that it is not necessary to change the gauge if it is a specified thread, but the gauge will change if the hand changes. Whatever the thread, do your best to get the gauge.