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Simple Stockinette Scarf
February 16, 2024
編み物初心者さんや文章パターンが初めての方におすすめです。
Simple Stockinette Mitts
February 16, 2024
Knitting for Beginners!
July 13, 2022
The series "Knitting for Beginners!"
The 6th is about the worries that everyone hits when they start knitting.
・The stitches are twisted. ・The back knitting becomes loose.
And so on, there were many questions from everyone.
Youtube is here!
https://youtu.be/Yx3q_4AmSqw
We also accept questions from beginners. If you want to get rid of the blur, please write to us.
https://amirisu.typeform.com/to/IYyCTYFV
***
Question 1: How to hold the needle. American style or French style, which one is recommended for beginners?
There are no recommendations. Choose the one that is easy for you.
The American style is a knitting method in which the thread is put on the right hand. The right hand (which is the dominant hand for many people) can pull the string a lot, so it tends to be tight. However, since the thread is pulled and attached to the stick, it is easy to align the eyes.
The French style is a way of knitting by putting the thread on the left hand like this. I'm French. Keep the tension on the thread on your finger and pick it up with the needle in your right hand. It is often looser than the American style.
Which one is faster to knit depends on the skill of the knitter. Some people knit very quickly in the American style, and there are many people who knit the eyes neatly in the French style.
I think it would be a good idea to try both and practice the knitting method that you feel is easy to do.
And there are knitting styles that are neither American nor French. Even if such a student comes, I will not fix it. Any kind of knitting method is OK as long as it can be knit neatly.
Question 2: Do you use both American and French styles when knitting braided patterns?
I think it's probably the quickest to use both the American and the French style with the yarn on both hands.
However, I only knit my knitting patterns in the French style. For example, if you are weaving two colors, put two threads on your left index finger slightly apart, pick up the thread you need and knit.
This is fine if the color changes every 2-3 stitches, but if the same color continues for a while, it will be difficult to keep the two threads on your fingers with the same tension. At that time, apply one by one. When the color changes, change the string you put on your finger.
It may seem like a bit of a hassle, but in the end, it's faster and more beautiful than knitting in the American style, which I'm not used to.
If you think about it, you don't need to knit so fast. The beauty of the finished product is more important than speed. Choose the method that best knits for you.
Question 3: It is difficult to keep the tension of the thread on the finger in the French style.
It's difficult, isn't it?
I keep the tension by pinching the thread between my ring finger and little finger. Some people have double threads wrapped around their pinky or ring finger. It varies from person to person and there is no standard method.
However, maintaining tension is very important.
I always tell beginners that the knitting method is determined not by the movement of the right hand, but by the tension of the thread in the left hand and the angle of the needle.
If the tension is maintained, it will be easier to remove the stitch from the needle and the size of the stitch will be kept constant. This is because the tension when the needle is pulled out determines the shape of the thread along the needle. I think that people who have eyes aligned always have a constant tension.
As long as your own little world is complete, that's fine, so it's difficult, but you have to find the correct answer yourself. For that, let's practice.
Knitting is like riding a bicycle. Please practice and learn your own "how to ride knitting".
Question 4: Compared to the front side, the back side is looser.
It's not just you! I'm also a fan of loose knitting.
I think that many people end up looser on the back side because the thread on the back side cannot be pulled much due to its structure.
So, I think that it should be taken as a gauge. Even if the front is tight and the back is loose, as long as the gauge is established, it will be fine.
(But wouldn't that make the fabric stripy?)
If the looseness is so different that the stripes are worrisome, you have no choice but to consciously keep the tension tight.
I also loosen it when I let it go, so I pull it carefully and knit it. This is also practice.
Question 5: I'm sad that the length of the thread end may be insufficient for making the stitches on the fingers. What should I do now?
This was discovered by Ms. Meri, but if you run out of thread halfway through, you can use new thread to add stitches. Even if the stitches are not connected, if you keep knitting the second and third rows, you won't have to worry about the boundaries.
If you run out, just cut the thread and start over.
I'm researching because there may be other ways to do it. I'll let you know when I find it!
And if you don't want to run out of threads, this is absolutely safe! You should leave the end of the thread out as long as possible.
Question 6: Do you make stitches by putting two needles together? Can I have just one?
In Japanese knitting books, it is often written that two needles should be put together to make stitches.
But it's not popular anymore!
Please do it with one needle that is a little thicker than specified.
The reason why I wrote to do it in two is because I don't want to make it tight. My guess is that in the past, it was difficult to get people to buy a lot of needles, so I thought, "Wouldn't it be better to combine two needles to create a loose stitch with the same needle?" I think.
But isn't it too loose if you do it with two? ?
Recently, replacement circular needles have become popular, and everyone has a lot of needles. So, for example, if it was written to be made in No. 6, why don't you increase the number by about No. 2 and do it with No. 8?
So, when you knit the next row, change it to size 6 and you will get a nice texture.
Question 7: What should I do to avoid twisting when making loops?
There is no better way! You just have to clip it, spread it out properly, and watch carefully to make sure it doesn't get twisted.
However, I think that everyone always fails in the second step. Isn't it twisted at the time of the 1th step? ? I think they are looking at it very seriously. But I didn't carelessly watch the second stage.
At the beginning of knitting, the width of the knitted fabric is thin, so it is difficult to understand, and some people twist it at the moment of knitting the second row. So, after knitting for a while, check again to see if it's twisted!
I think you'll be fine as long as you check regularly. I've only twisted once or twice in my life.
Also, I think it would be difficult with a magic loop. It seems better to do it with a four-pin needle.
And there is also a method of making a loop after several rows of flat knitting. Only the flat-knitted part needs to be slightly unstitched, and it is very comfortable because it will never be twisted. This method is safe when you have 300 or 400 stitches.
I can't knit because the stitches are twisted and my heart is broken! This is the recommended method for such people.
Question 8: If you make a stitch, the twist of the thread will be untwisted. What should I do.
There is no way to solve it. That's what it is.
It can't be helped that the yarn gets tangled in two or three. Anyone can do that, so please try thinking that it can't be helped.
Thank you, Tokuko-sensei! Next time I will talk about finishing.
Knitting for Beginners! ~About Gauge~
June 09, 2022
Knitting for Beginners!
Mr. Tokuko had a strong desire to have a gauge round, so in the fifth installment, the gauge is important! Get the game! This is the story.
Youtube is here !
We are still accepting questions from beginners through the form .
Question 1: What made you want to talk more about Gage?
To be honest, there are a lot of people who don't pick up the gauge! Because I want you to understand the meaning of the game properly.
Taking the gauge is the work of knitting a swatch and checking how many rows there are in 10cm x 10cm.
When a designer writes a pattern, he always uses a gauge to determine how many stitches and rows he will knit, and then calculates the overall size based on that.
If you start knitting without a gauge, the tragedy will be that it will not be the ideal shape that the designer worked hard to create, and it will be too small or too big. Sad, isn't it?
Question 2: I find it troublesome to take gauges. Is it not okay to take a gauge of 5 cm x 5 cm and double it by calculation?
I understand how you feel, but let's start with a proper 10cm.
The stitches are not stable at the beginning of the knitting or at the edge of the knitted fabric, so if you want to be more certain, knit 15cm x 15cm and measure in the middle.
If you are used to it, 5cm x 5cm is fine.
Question 3: What should I do if either the number of stitches or the number of rows does not match?
It's hard to answer because it depends on the number of steps and the patterns.
For horizontal knitting designs, you need to match the number of rows tightly.
For top-down or bottom-up designs, you can adjust the number of rows while knitting.
However, if there is an increase or decrease, it is necessary to pay attention to the timing. If you blindly tweak the number of steps, the timing of the raglan stitches of the top-down sweater will not match, resulting in a strange shape, and the overall balance will be disturbed.
The only solution is to recalculate. Therefore, it is best to somehow match the number of stitches and the number of rows to the gauge.
Therefore, what I would like to recommend to beginners is to find a designer who matches your gauge.
There is bound to be a designer with a good chemistry that says, "This person always fits the gauge!"
In general, men are more powerful than women, so their hands are tighter. Also, the American style tends to be tighter than the French style. If you think, "I can't get a gauge this tight!", it's probably because the knitting method is different from mine. Unfortunately, I disagree with the designer. Level up, then challenge the person's design.
Question 4: When raising or lowering the number of needles to match the gauge, do you try changing by one number?
Since it doesn't change much around No. 1, I recommend that you try to change No. 2.
It's just a very unfortunate story, but there are almost no people who can knit according to the gauge even if they have taken the gauge. Because things change when you lose your temper.
Then there's no point in taking the game! It is said, but that is not the case.
I want you to take a gauge to know your habits .
I always find the actual knitted fabric looser than the gauge. Knitting a small square seems to make your hands tense and tight.
Therefore, I start knitting with the feeling that it will actually be one or two stitches looser than the result of removing the gauge.
The designated gauge was 22nd, and when the gauge was taken, it was 24th.
→ In this case, it will actually be 22, so I think there is no problem.
Taking the gauge every time is to know your own habits. By knowing the difference between the gauge and the actual knitted fabric, you will be able to make the size you want . Be sure to pick up the game! ! !
Question 5: Do you leave the gauged swatches unundone and compare them with the actual knitted fabric?
If it's something you design yourself, be sure to keep it.
When knitting other people's patterns, I will not leave.
I think it's safe to leave it at first, but it's okay if you don't get used to it. Once you get used to it, you'll be able to change the needles while you're knitting to get the gauge just right.
Question 6: Knitted swatches twirl. Should I garter the ends and lay them flat?
All you have to do is stretch and measure, so there is no problem even if you are spinning. I do not mind.
What you shouldn't do is make assumptions.
Try pulling it out a bit or shrinking it. There are many people who want to get closer to the designated gauge and move it just a little. But no! Leave it as it is and measure it as it is. That's the cardinal rule.
Question 7: Do the swatches drain and then gauge?
There is a thread that shrinks and stretches when water is passed through it.
When I write a pattern myself, if I use a thread that changes a lot when I run the water through it, I write an alert saying, "Because it shrinks, please measure both before and after running the water through it." If there is an alert, follow it obediently.
If it's a normal thread, it's a good idea to apply a steam iron to it and see how much it changes before and after applying it.
Lace patterns should be run through water and spread out to see how they look.
I don't like having to do a lot of work before knitting, but knitting takes a lot of time. Therefore, I would like you to assign one day to the game day.
Taking all possible measures is the first step to making a good product.
Question 8: For designs with multiple patterns, for example, do you knit both swatches for the knitted part and the patterned part?
I would really like to have both, but it's difficult.
If both gauges are on the pattern, basically I think that if you match the knitted one, the knitted gauge will also match.
Designs with different patterns for each part make it difficult even for designers to keep gauges properly. I think that it is safe to match even one place somewhere.
Question 9: If the design is knitted in a circle, such as socks, do you also knit the swatch in a circle?
Many people use different hands when knitting in a circle and when knitting back and forth.
If you know how much you change, double-knit swatches are fine.
I know my habit of knitting in a circle to make my hands tighter, so I start knitting assuming it will actually be tighter than the double-knit gauge.
And even if you knit a swatch with a loop smaller than the actual gauge, it's hard to say that you're knitting a definite gauge, because the swatches for knitting large and small loops are different.
If you don't cast on the number of stitches according to the pattern and knit it, you can't know the true gauge.
That's why I always keep statistics on what happens when I'm knitting a circle.
I think that improving your knitting means that you can knit from start to finish with the assumed gauge and finish it in a good shape .
In order to do so, we must accumulate data by observing what we have knitted every day .
Again, the act of taking the gauge first to know your habits is very important.
Question 10: Anything else left out?
It seems that some people think that it is not necessary to change the gauge if it is a specified thread, but the gauge will change if the hand changes. Whatever the thread, do your best to get the gauge.
Knitting for Beginners! 4 ~Needles~
April 08, 2022
Knitting for Beginners! 3 ~ About yarn materials and handling of yarn balls ~
February 22, 2022
Good evening.
Knitting for Beginners !, a plan to ask Mr. Tokuko questions from beginner staff.
This time it will be a rough content, but please understand.
This is because, for example, even the same wool can have completely different textures and thicknesses depending on the type of sheep and processing method, so it is not possible to categorically say, "This material is like this." Also, there are individual differences in the sense of ease of knitting, so please read it as a reference.
Youtube is here!
https://youtu.be/i2UTKsozmJg
We also accept questions from beginners. If you want to get rid of the blur, please write to us.
https://amirisu.typeform.com/to/IYyCTYFV
***
Question 1: Do you have a recommended material for beginners to knit for the first time?
I recommend wool.
Wool stretches relatively well, and even though it is thick, it is often light, so I think it is easy to knit.
First, we recommend using 100% wool yarn that is slightly thick, such as Hike from amirisu.
Question 2: What materials do you recommend for spring/summer?
100% wool is hot in spring and summer.
So, first try a yarn that is a blend of wool with another material.
If you choose wool mixed with cotton or linen, you can knit it without feeling too difficult.
Among amirisu yarns, we recommend Parade, which is a mixture of 60% wool, 20% cotton, and 10% each of silk and linen.
Linen is cool and perfect for summer, but it can be a little tricky to knit because it doesn't stretch. Technique is necessary to align the eyes neatly. I think that if someone who is not used to knitting first tries it, they will feel depressed when they see their own knitted fabric.
For those who try linen for the first time, we recommend amirisu's Wanderlust Linen, which has a chain shape and is relatively easy to stretch among linens.
Also, cotton generally does not stretch as much as wool and is heavy. You may need a little technique to knit.
Question 3: What kinds of animal hairs other than wool are available?
They include cashmere, alpaca, camel, and yak.
This also depends on the type of animal, the part from which the hair is removed, and the processing method, but most of them are very warm. Because it is rarer than sheep, the price will be higher. Some alpaca have a slippery feel that contains moisture.
Question 4: Is there a difference in the ease of knitting depending on the color?
Bright colors are easier to see and easier to knit.
However, if you are easy to see, it means that you can be seen well by others. The bright color of the knitting pattern stands out and is cute, but the coarseness also stands out accordingly.
The blackish color makes it difficult to see the pattern even if you knit it, but you can hide the coarseness. Which one you choose is up to you.
Question 5: How can I use yarn that is sold in skeins?
The skein becomes a large loop when unwound.
→
If you leave it as it is, it will be difficult to pull out the thread or it will get tangled, so be sure to use it after making it into a ball of yarn.
If you use the Kasekuri device and the Tamamaki device, it will be easy to make in a short time, and the finish will be beautiful.
This video explains in detail how to use the kasukuri device. Please look.
If you don't have a skein device or ball roll device at hand, use a skein on your leg or the back of a chair to prevent it from getting tangled, and wind the thread around the core of the plastic wrap to make it round. It's okay. If you search the internet, you will find various methods.
Question 6: Where do you pull the thread from the ball of yarn?
I use the thread from the outside instead of the center of the ball.
The reason is that the balls are less likely to fall apart. If you use it from the outside, the ball of yarn will only get smaller, but if you use it from the center, the inside will become more and more hollow and the ball will languish.
However, there are no set rules, so feel free to do whatever you like.
Question 7: Do you have any other tricks to prevent the ball of yarn from collapsing?
Summer yarns such as linen and cotton are particularly prone to crumbling, so they are tightly packed in a ziplock bag.
Pull the thread out from the center of the ball, leave the end of the ziplock bag slightly open, and pull the end of the thread through it. It is a recommended method for those who carry knitting.
Next time, about needles.
We will be answering all of your questions little by little!
Knitting for Beginners! 2 ~Yarn processing and lots~
January 29, 2022
Good evening.
This is the second installment of Knitting for Beginners!, a project in which beginner staff members ask Tokuko-sensei more and more questions.
This time, about the processing and lot of woolen yarn.
What kind of yarn does not get pilled easily and which can be washed in the washing machine? ? I would like to be able to choose the appropriate thread according to the purpose.
Youtube is here!
https://youtu.be/Bg98zUxSa0c
We also accept questions from beginners. If you want to get rid of the blur, please write to us.
https://amirisu.typeform.com/to/IYyCTYFV
***
Question 1: What is the difference between super wash and non-super wash?
Super wash = shrink-proofed Non-super wash = not shrink-proofed
is.
Shrink-proofing is a process that literally prevents shrinkage.
Amirisu's Trek, for example, contains 70% preshrunk wool, making it a superwash yarn.
Have you ever been washing knitwear and suddenly your hair has become stiff?
This is a phenomenon called "felting". The hair is originally fluffy, but when washed, the fibers stick together and become stronger, shrinking and hardening.
Preshrunk prevents that and makes it shrink-resistant even in the washing machine. That's why I'm thankful for Super Wash for socks that I wash often. I hate washing my socks by hand.
It is also recommended to knit children's things in super wash .
If you wash it over and over again, even super wash will eventually become felted.
Question 2: Should I put it in the net and wash it carefully even with super wash?
of course. The less friction, the farther the road to felting.
For example, I always put my socks in a net and wash them in the cold water mode of the washing machine and dry them in the shade. I've had them for 4-5 years and still use them.
Question 3: Is there a difference in warmth?
yes. Super wash lacks warmth because it does not lint. Suppressing fuzzing means that the surface area that the hair hits is reduced and it is cold. I have a superwash merino shawl from La Bien Aimee, but it's not that warm, so I use it for spring/autumn instead of winter.
Question 4: Is there a difference in feel?
Hand and preshrunk are different issues. It cannot be said unconditionally that the pre-shrunk fabric feels better or worse. It depends on the type of sheep, so you have no choice but to touch and choose the one you like.
Question 5: What kind of thread is prone to pilling?
The ease of pilling depends on the strength of the twist. The stronger the twist, the less likely it is to pill. 1ply fluffy ones are easy to knit but prone to pilling.
Also, even with the same thread, the ease of pilling may change depending on the weaving method, so it is difficult to weave tightly.
However, it is difficult to generalize because it depends on the length of the pile and the material of the thread.
The more you knit, the more you learn the characteristics of the yarn, so it would be nice if you could knit a lot and be able to choose the yarn depending on what you want to knit.
Question 6: What is the "lot" written on the tag?
It is the number attached to the pot and kettle when dyeing wool. Something like a serial number.
Items with the same lot number are dyed in the same pot at the same time. Even with ordinary threads that are not hand-dyed, the color may change slightly if the kettle is different. It is affected by slight differences in conditions.
The tag looks like this.
And what would be a problem if the colors were slightly different for each skein?
Even if it doesn't bother me at all when I'm knitting, when I look at the finished work from a distance or take a picture of it, there are times when I'm surprised by the difference in color. Since the sweater will be striped, it is safe to buy in batches.
Buy all the yarn you need to knit your piece in bulk.
Question 7: If you miss a purchase, is it difficult to find the same lot of yarn again?
I think it is difficult. If you can only get a different lot, I think it would be better to bring the different lot skein to an inconspicuous part such as the sleeve or back body.
For advanced users, there is also a way to make the most of the difference in color.
Question 8: Do you have lots for hand-dyed yarn?
Although there are lots, it seems that they are not managing lots. I think there are many manufacturers who don't use it because they can only dye 4 to 5 skeins in the same pot.
As for the speckle, there is no lot because it is completely different for each skein.
Question 9: What is a base?
The base is the fabric thread. The original undyed yarn has the color of the wool itself. Colors like white, beige and grey. The colorful threads lined up in the shop are dyed fabric threads.
I think that there are large manufacturers and manufacturers that are particular about making yarn, and they talk to spinning factories and make fabric yarn from scratch. However, small manufacturers and individuals who sell hand-dyed yarns often buy yarns from companies that make fabric yarns and dye them.
That's why, when I look at the yarn, I can tell that the ◇◇ yarn from that manufacturer and the ◆◆ from this manufacturer use the same fabric yarn. Ordinary people may not know this.
By the way, amirisu is made from fabric threads. It is an original base that is not on the market elsewhere.
Knitting is a very maniac, but it's a fun handicraft that you can start by choosing your own materials. It's difficult at first, but I hope you enjoy choosing yarn while imagining what kind of work you want to make. Don't be afraid to fail and gain experience.
Start a blog for beginners.
January 21, 2022
Hello everyone who wants to start knitting this year.
This is Hasuda, a beginner staff with a year and a half of knitting experience.
"Knitting seems fun. I would be happy if I could knit a fashionable knit by myself."
Even if you think so, isn't there a lot of people who don't know what to start with?
In particular, amirisu deals with imported yarns from overseas and text patterns that are not yet popular in Japan, so I feel that the hurdles to entry have become even higher.
So, in this new series, I asked Tokuko-sensei about all the doubts I had when I started knitting, and tried to clear them up. I plan to deliver it on my blog and Youtube.
Youtube is here!
https://youtu.be/Iykq0WEGBCE
I think it's too easy for experienced users, so feel free to skip it. (There may be hidden bits of knowledge that aren't known unexpectedly...!)
We also accept questions from beginners. If you want to get rid of the blur, please write to us.
↓ ↓
https://amirisu.typeform.com/to/IYyCTYFV
***
First time, about the thickness of the wool.
When I started knitting, my first reference was a Japanese knitting book. So, the first thing I learned was the Japanese notation for the thickness of yarn, such as medium thin and average thickness. However, when you visit a Walnut shop, there is no such notation. I didn't know which one to choose, so I took out my smartphone and searched the internet one by one in front of the shelf.
However, when I looked into it, it seems that the thickness of the thread is rather ambiguous.
Let's ask Tokuko.
Question 1: Is there a standard for thread thickness?
There is no standard for how many millimeters in diameter it should be called.
Then what determines the gauge is generally the gauge when knitting knitted knitting. It is decided that "If it is a gauge of what number of stages, let's use this thickness".
A gauge indicates how many stitches (horizontal) and how many rows (vertical) a square knitted fabric of a certain size is composed.
For example, "30 stitches and 40 rows in a 10 cm square" is written as "30 stitches & 40 rows = 10 cm".
It is also written on the thread tag like this. Dan is not even mentioned. Also, there are both cm and inch notation, so please be careful not to make a mistake. (1 inch = about 2.5 cm)
Also, although it is a little more specialized, there is also a method using a stick-like tool called WPI, which counts how many times the thread can be wrapped around a 1cm width. However, personally, I have never thought about thread thickness in WPI.
Question 2: Do you understand the correspondence between the Japanese notation and the English notation?
I've moved away from Japanese knitting, so I don't know (laughs).
However, if you search the Internet, you will find many correspondence tables.
Roughly speaking, the response is as follows.
Question 3: It seems that the notation is different depending on the country. Which English notation is used in amirisu?
I use the one on Ravelry .
Ravelry is an SNS where knitting enthusiasts from all over the world gather. Buy designer patterns, share your knitted creations, and store patterns you want to knit.
And Ravelry is also a yarn database. Make sure to check the thickness of the thread because it is always written.
This is amirisun's original yarn, Wanderlust Linen page.
circled in blue ? Press to display the thread classification table.
I think that the manufacturers put in the thickness by themselves.
However, when a lot of people who try knitting the thread say, "It says DK, but I definitely think it's a Sport," sometimes things change.
In addition, there are threads that can produce various gauges depending on the needle. It's the same with amirisu's Hike, and I'm having trouble figuring out how to write it. Gauges appear from DK to Aran.
In other words, there is no need to stick to the notation of thread thickness.
Since the amount of hands used when knitting differs from person to person, even with the same thread, the gauge will vary from person to person. It also depends on the material. If you want to knit something, first get a gauge .
Question 4: You can't try gauges without buying thread. When I buy yarn for the first time, I don't want to make a mistake, but what should I do?
Beginners who do not know the salt plums around here,
1. Buy the thread recommended by the shop staff 2. Buy the thread in the kit 3. Buy the specified thread for the pattern
I think choosing one of these is the easiest way and you won't make a big mistake. Even with the specified thread, you may not be able to get the specified gauge, but prepare a lot of needles and increase or decrease the size of the needle to get as close to the specified gauge as possible.
However, if you are new to knitting and you don't know if you will continue to knit, you may be reluctant to buy a set of needles. (It's also worth the price...)
In such a case, please start with scarves and shawls that can be used without problems even if the size is slightly different. With sweaters and socks, it would be sad if they didn't fit or were too big.
Knitting is an experience value. The more experience you gain, the more yarn options you can use. Isn't that the difficult part of knitting, and the interesting part?
Don't be afraid to fail and don't take yourself too seriously, just try.
Question 5: What does 1ply, 2ply mean?
Ply represents the number of twists. If it is 1ply, it means that it is not twisted. With 2ply, two strands are twisted together. However, just because a thread is twisted a lot does not mean that the thread is thick. Even 4ply is thin.
Question 6: Is it stronger if it is twisted a lot?
of course.
However, it depends on the number of turns of the twist (tightness, looseness), so it's hard to say for certain...
Question 7: What is Light in Light Fingering?
A little thinner than Fingering. Not as thin as lace, but thinner than Fingering. Conversely, Heavy means a little thicker.
Question 8: There are some fingerings that say sock yarn and others that don't. If you want to knit socks, should you choose sock yarn?
It is the manufacturer side that names it as sock yarn. The manufacturer simply recommends, "This thread is recommended for socks!"
So, you can knit socks with sock yarn according to the recommendations, knit sweaters with yarn that says sock yarn, or knit socks with yarn that doesn't.
In general, good socks are those that are twisted to some extent and are durable. Amirisu's Trek is highly recommended.
Question 9: Does mohair have thickness?
Mohair is the so-called animal hair. This is the hair that comes from the Angora goat, not from sheep. The thickness of the thread changes depending on how it is processed, so naturally there are variations in the thickness of mohair. There is no such thing as fat because it's a sheep or thin because it's a goat.
For example, DARUMA's wool mohair and silk mohair are completely different in thickness.
Question 10: What are solids and speckles?
A solid skein that is evenly dyed in a single color, or that looks like a single color.
Speckle is speckled in English, but it has a grainy pattern.
Danzome is a gradation.
By the way, when you knit yarn with different colors in half of the skein like this, the knitted fabric will be completely different depending on the width and size of what you are knitting, so you won't know until you try it.
Knitting a sweater and knitting socks are completely different in length. It is a good idea to try knitting and enjoy the fun of how the colors come out.
It's annoying and frustrating to try to solve a puzzle after failing, but don't be discouraged at first and try to solve it as many times as you like. Unlike sewing, you can start over again, so in a sense you can start at ease.
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This is getting long, so I'll stop here for now.
Next time, we will talk about yarn processing.
What is Super Wash? What kind of yarn is less prone to pilling? What is lot? And so on, I will listen!
We are also accepting questions from everyone!
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