Good evening.
This is the second installment of Knitting for Beginners!, a project in which beginner staff members ask Tokuko-sensei more and more questions.
This time, about the processing and lot of woolen yarn.
What kind of yarn does not get pilled easily and which can be washed in the washing machine? ? I would like to be able to choose the appropriate thread according to the purpose.
Youtube is here!
https://youtu.be/Bg98zUxSa0c
We also accept questions from beginners. If you want to get rid of the blur, please write to us.
https://amirisu.typeform.com/to/IYyCTYFV
＊＊＊
Question 1: What is the difference between super wash and non-super wash?
Super wash = shrink-proofed Non-super wash = not shrink-proofed
is.
Shrink-proofing is a process that literally prevents shrinkage.
Amirisu's Trek, for example, contains 70% preshrunk wool, making it a superwash yarn.
Have you ever been washing knitwear and suddenly your hair has become stiff?
This is a phenomenon called "felting". The hair is originally fluffy, but when washed, the fibers stick together and become stronger, shrinking and hardening.
Preshrunk prevents that and makes it shrink-resistant even in the washing machine. That's why I'm thankful for Super Wash for socks that I wash often. I hate washing my socks by hand.
It is also recommended to knit children's things in super wash .
If you wash it over and over again, even super wash will eventually become felted.
Question 2: Should I put it in the net and wash it carefully even with super wash?
of course. The less friction, the farther the road to felting.
For example, I always put my socks in a net and wash them in the cold water mode of the washing machine and dry them in the shade. I've had them for 4-5 years and still use them.
Question 3: Is there a difference in warmth?
yes. Super wash lacks warmth because it does not lint. Suppressing fuzzing means that the surface area that the hair hits is reduced and it is cold. I have a superwash merino shawl from La Bien Aimee, but it's not that warm, so I use it for spring/autumn instead of winter.
Question 4: Is there a difference in feel?
Hand and preshrunk are different issues. It cannot be said unconditionally that the pre-shrunk fabric feels better or worse. It depends on the type of sheep, so you have no choice but to touch and choose the one you like.
Question 5: What kind of thread is prone to pilling?
The ease of pilling depends on the strength of the twist. The stronger the twist, the less likely it is to pill. 1ply fluffy ones are easy to knit but prone to pilling.
Also, even with the same thread, the ease of pilling may change depending on the weaving method, so it is difficult to weave tightly.
However, it is difficult to generalize because it depends on the length of the pile and the material of the thread.
The more you knit, the more you learn the characteristics of the yarn, so it would be nice if you could knit a lot and be able to choose the yarn depending on what you want to knit.
Question 6: What is the "lot" written on the tag?
It is the number attached to the pot and kettle when dyeing wool. Something like a serial number.
Items with the same lot number are dyed in the same pot at the same time. Even with ordinary threads that are not hand-dyed, the color may change slightly if the kettle is different. It is affected by slight differences in conditions.
The tag looks like this.
And what would be a problem if the colors were slightly different for each skein?
Even if it doesn't bother me at all when I'm knitting, when I look at the finished work from a distance or take a picture of it, there are times when I'm surprised by the difference in color. Since the sweater will be striped, it is safe to buy in batches.
Buy all the yarn you need to knit your piece in bulk.
Question 7: If you miss a purchase, is it difficult to find the same lot of yarn again?
I think it is difficult. If you can only get a different lot, I think it would be better to bring the different lot skein to an inconspicuous part such as the sleeve or back body.
For advanced users, there is also a way to make the most of the difference in color.
Question 8: Do you have lots for hand-dyed yarn?
Although there are lots, it seems that they are not managing lots. I think there are many manufacturers who don't use it because they can only dye 4 to 5 skeins in the same pot.
As for the speckle, there is no lot because it is completely different for each skein.
Question 9: What is a base?
The base is the fabric thread. The original undyed yarn has the color of the wool itself. Colors like white, beige and grey. The colorful threads lined up in the shop are dyed fabric threads.
I think that there are large manufacturers and manufacturers that are particular about making yarn, and they talk to spinning factories and make fabric yarn from scratch. However, small manufacturers and individuals who sell hand-dyed yarns often buy yarns from companies that make fabric yarns and dye them.
That's why, when I look at the yarn, I can tell that the ◇◇ yarn from that manufacturer and the ◆◆ from this manufacturer use the same fabric yarn. Ordinary people may not know this.
By the way, amirisu is made from fabric threads. It is an original base that is not on the market elsewhere.
Knitting is a very maniac, but it's a fun handicraft that you can start by choosing your own materials. It's difficult at first, but I hope you enjoy choosing yarn while imagining what kind of work you want to make. Don't be afraid to fail and gain experience.