Yonetomi Seni was founded in 1952 in Yamanobe-machi, Yamagata Prefecture, a town that once had more than 50 knitwear manufacturers. Yonetomi Seni originally started as an OEM manufacturer, however, Ken Oe, the third president and representative director, steered the company toward creating factory brands under the motto of “shortening the distance between the creator and buyer." The company now offers three brands with different tastes: “COOHEM,” with items made using unique textiles that do not look like knitwear; “THISISISASWEATER.” proposes new values while utilizing the techniques cultivated since the company's founding to create standard items that are particular about both materials and production, and "Yonetomi" offers everyday wear with a basic but thoughtful designs.
"I never thought I would return to my hometown to take over the company."
Mr. Oe decided to return to his hometown after working in apparel sales in Tokyo, where he had doubts about his own career and the future of Japan's textile industry. He moved from Yamagata to Tokyo for university and also attended an apparel-related vocational school since he loves fashion. In the 1990s, clothes sold like hotcakes at the Tokyo boutique where he worked, even if the shop staff did nothing. Yonetomi Seni, on the other hand, was forced to downsize as orders fell due to the introduction of cheaply produced clothes from overseas.
"Both companies are in the fashion industry, so what's the difference?" he wondered.
At the same time, he also thought about Italian factory brands that were competing on the world stage by utilizing their technical capabilities and sense of style. Just as he began to consider why Japan isn’t achieving this, his father, the second president of Yonetomi Seni, said to him, “If we don't create a brand and sell our own products, the knitwear industry in Japan will become difficult,” which encouraged him to take on this challenge before the company disappeared. He joined Yonetomi Seni at the age of 30 and worked in the factories, sales, and underwent technical training in hopes of launching a brand. During this time, he was confronted with the company's structural challenges.
Realizing again the difficulties of running a business and launching a brand, Mr. Oe also strongly felt the superior level of the company's technology. The foundation of this technology was the knitting fabric development department, which was established about 40 years ago. The department does not simply produce OEM orders but make its strength researching combinations of yarn and knitting structures to create original textiles. It has now accumulated over 20,000 knitted fabrics.
For example, cashmere is generally made soft and light, but they are actively developing new knitted fabrics such as rigid cashmere, which is knitted in a middle gauge with a strong twist. “It starts out with a sweatshirt-like feel, but as you use it like denim, by washing it and seeing it transform, it becomes soft and cashmere-like. I think you will be able to wear it for a long time.”
A view of the factory with knitting machines lined up in rows.
Currently, about 40 knitting machines operate 24 hours a day at the factory, 20 of which are low-gauge machines. Generally, high-gauge products are the mainstream, as they are easier to obtain orders for throughout the year, but Yonetomi Seni insists on low-gauge products because they have their roots in hand-spun knitwear and because Yamagata is, after all, a cold region.
Fancy yarn knitted on a low-gauge knitting machine.
The process of connecting sweater collars, sleeves, and other parts together. It requires careful and precise work done by hand.
In 2010, they finally launched the factory brand “COOHEM”. The theme is “This is not a sweater.” The brand name is derived from the cross-knitting technique, and the and the challenge was to use their technology as a knitwear manufacturer to create items that do not look like knitwear, such as denim and riders’ jackets. The brand experimented with unique fabrics by combining a variety of knitting structures and fancy yarns. When he presented his work at an exhibition, he was able to do business with a major apparel company. “Everyone in the company was surprised,” he said, smiling.
At first, Mr. Oe did everything by himself, from design to sales, but gradually more and more staff became involved in the brand, and now the company has several brands, including the more basic “THISISISASWEATER.” and “Yonetomi”.
“THISISASWEATER.” is their second brand that considers the question “What is a sweater?” Each sweater has its own story.
They have expanded overseas and started selling directly through their online store. There have been a number of major milestones since the launch of the brand, but the most significant change was the opening of the Yonetomi Store, a brand-operated store attached to the factory.
The reason for this was COVID-19. Apparel stores across the country were forced to suspend operations, clothes were not selling, and for the first time, there was nothing to make at the factory. He thought, “If no one will place an order, we have no choice but to place them ourselves.” With this in mind, he gathered leftover yarn from the factory and produced about 700 basic, easy-to-use sweaters. He held pop-ups in Yamagata Prefecture and worked hard to generate sales. It was then that the brand Yonetomi was launched.
As he traveled around Yamagata, he realized that there were opportunities there as well. The pop-ups that attracted customers via Instagram etc. attracted more people than he had imagined, and he realized the significance of opening a store in Yamagata.
In 2020, they opened their first brand-operated store, converting the space at the front entrance of their headquarters into a store.
Yonetomi Store
What is unique about the store is that everyone in the company is responsible for working as sales staff on a shift basis. Not only young staff, but President Oe and older managers appear in the store, too. "The store is attached to the factory. I thought it would not be ideal to have only young sales staff working in the store like they do in Tokyo. It is beneficial to be able to talk to customers about things that only the makers can talk about, and after two years of doing this, I feel that everyone’s mindset has changed from the brand being someone else's business to their own."
“The percentage of knitwear produced in Japan is currently only 0.6%. It is sometimes written in the newspapers as though it is an endangered species, but what is needed is to continue to produce knitwear and to tell people about it. When I joined the company, I thought that the brand was just a means to an end with the goal being to shorten the distance between the production site and customers. It is interesting to see how that is coming to fruition.”
The amirisu team also thoroughly enjoyed shopping at the store.
On the third Saturday of every month, they offer factory tours. (Advance reservations required)
https://www.yonetomistore.jp/news/5
The careful work that goes into making a sweater will surely change the way you feel about a piece of clothing. Be sure to go shopping at the Yonetomi Store while remembering the factory tour.
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〒990-0301
1136 Yamabe, Yamabe-cho, Higashimurayama-gun, Yamagata Prefecture
023-664-8165
Yonetomi Seni Co. Ltd
HP: https://www.yonetomi.co.jp/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yonetomiseni/
Yonetomi Store
HP: https://www.yonetomistore.jp/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yonetomistore/