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July 17, 2020
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I want to knit with sports weight yarn!
July 10, 2020
Making Heroine Jeans (Part 3)
July 02, 2020
This time, I will introduce my impressions and lessons learned from making jeans for the first time.
A little change
I basically followed the pattern from start to finish, but there are some minor changes. In the Heroine pattern, all the seams are finished with a zigzag sewing machine, but when I looked at my jeans, the back yoke and crotch were double-sewn, so I double-sewn them. I was worried about the thickness where the yoke and rise overlap, so I cut as much as possible about 2 cm from the edge of the inner seam allowance to reduce the thickness.
Actually, I thought I should sew the inseam with bag stitching (I could probably do it if I thought about doing it), but I had a lock sewing machine finish here as well, so I really like it, so this time it's easier. Finished with a zigzag sewing machine.
Also, I haven't put it on yet, but I'm thinking about putting a leather tag on the back.
sew your first pair of jeans
The biggest thing I learned this time was that you can sew denim fabric with a home sewing machine! That's all.
A lot of people have told me that if it's a little thick fabric, it's not suitable for a home sewing machine, but it was fine at all! 12 was fine, and I think I can go up to about 13.5.
I also found that thicker fabrics are easier to sew. Of course, you need to be careful when the seam allowance overlaps, but when you sew a straight line, it doesn't slip easily and it goes beautifully. And since the thread is a contrast color, it's easy to untie when you want to start over! No more accidentally cutting fabric.
Until the waist belt was attached, it was really smooth without almost redoing. Belt loops and buttonholes were the hardest!
I would like to challenge again without learning from this. Next, try 13.5 oz selvedge denim! I will also add rivets! It's a schedule.
Making Heroine Jeans (Part 2)
July 01, 2020
a little secret
Today, I'd like to introduce some tips and tricks that I learned while making Heroine Jeans.
・Try with 11 to 12 ounces first
As a serious jeans lover, I wanted to buy thick selvedge denim such as 14 oz. At this time, I think it's probably better to avoid stretching. At 12 ounces, it's about as thick as a pair of spring/summer jeans.
・Read the size chart carefully
Based on the size notation, I thought it would be 10 if it was me, but I decided on 8 considering the finished size. It was perfect. As for the length, I thought about how many centimeters to shorten it, taking into consideration the finished dimensions and the jeans I have (I thought it would shrink if washed, so I made it a little longer).
・Hardware kit from Heroine is recommended
It contains the necessary threads and zippers. This thread was easy to sew. I think. Zipper length is perfect.
・Different use of thread
The kit includes dark blue for sewing inconspicuous areas, and gold thick and fine count for visible stitching. I took out the jeans I had on hand step by step and carefully observed how to use them properly. It's troublesome to change the thread, but if you sew with the wrong thread for that part, it won't go well.
Basically, the upper thread is thick for areas that stand out or where you want to make it strong, and the other areas are thin on the top and bottom. Thinner around the zipper is enough. I used navy blue on the back where it's not very visible, but this is probably a matter of personal preference. I looked at my jeans and found that the navy blue thread was used in various ways.
By the way, the fine zigzag stitches, called Bartacks, weren't clean at all on my home sewing machine, even though the jeans I bought were made with thick thread. Thanks to that, I had to remove the belt loop many times with a ripper and start over.
Since thick thread is used and the fabric is thick, a sewing machine needle for thick fabric is absolutely necessary.
・How to sew Bartack
I used a fine thread with a width of 2.5 mm and a length of 0.3. However, when backstitching, the length of the back stitch is set to 0.4. When I returned it at 0.3, it became too thick, and the sewing machine sometimes got stuck.
・I can't do automatic buttonholes (it was a waste of time trying to solve it)
I practiced with excess fabric many times, but when I tried to make a buttonhole with a waist belt, it didn't work. I ended up undoing the buttonholes about four times, even though I didn't rework most of them while sewing the pants. It seems that the surrounding fabric is too thick, and the buttonhole holder gets caught in various places, messing up the sense of size. I ended up sewing the buttonholes by hand. If you search the net, you will find many ways to do it. Since it is cut and overlocked, it was more beautiful than a sewing machine.
・Sewing machine preparation
It seems that most of the causes when the sewing machine doesn't work well are dust. Knowing that, I recently opened the inside and cleaned it. Denim frays easily and creates dust, so first clean the area around the bobbin to prevent excess dust from accumulating.
Then there's the foot pedal. Actually, it's been about 2 years since I bought my current sewing machine, and I've been sewing with just the buttons at hand (the start button is right above the needle, so I can do it with just the buttons), but just a few weeks ago, I finally started sewing with the pedal. bought. I think it would be better to have a foot pedal to sew denim.
Continue with (Part 3).
Making Heroine Jeans (Part 1)
June 30, 2020
When I was a student, I didn't have much money, so I started sewing and even made a lined jacket to wear the clothes I wanted. I made a coat for my son this winter, and I think I've done most of it.
However, I thought that I had no choice but to buy only jeans.
How this was made! It's a very milestone event in my history.
I also started sewing again recently and decided to keep a record for those who would like to try jeans one day.
First the Heroine pattern
Last year I discovered a pattern for women's jeans at Merchant & Mills. I immediately bought it from England along with the hardware kit. Looking online, it seems that people who want to make their own jeans generally buy cheap jeans and take them apart to make a pattern, but if it's your first time, I highly recommend the Heroine pattern. On the Merchant & Mills website, men's jeans are also sold as a PDF.
Heroine for women is a contemporary pair of jeans with a high rise and feminine design. I searched various photos on Instagram, but it looks cool no matter who wears it. The thickness is perfect.
Also, the instructions on how to make it were very easy to understand. If you follow the instructions carefully, the jeans will come out naturally. The thickness of the fabric is controlled so that it can be made with a home sewing machine. Of course, if you get used to it, I think you can make it in a full-fledged way.
I did a video the other day explaining some common English sewing terms, and there were some new words. The word tack comes up often, and it seems that this also means "discipline." And Bartack is reinforced by sewing like a stick with a thin zigzag sewing machine. French Seam is a method like so-called bag sewing, but it seems that the seam allowance is shown on the front side first.
Continued in (Part 2).
Sew Along 2020!
June 27, 2020
Well, one of the things I'm dreading trying this year is making a jacket out of Merchant & Mills dry oil skin. I made a waist bag once last year, so I know it's not difficult to sew.
Unlike ordinary oil skin, dry oil skin is light and thin. Although it is waterproof, the texture is not much different from ordinary high-density cotton. Therefore, unlike paraffin-treated canvas, the edge of the fabric is usually finished with a zigzag sewing machine or a lock sewing machine.
However, there is one point to be aware of. that it cannot be ironed. Therefore, it is recommended to fold it with a sewing spatula.
Here is a jacket made from oilskin.
and TN31
This time we also have strings and ribs in stock, so we plan to prepare both as a kit.
Let's make it together!
As an aside, TN31 is also great made with thick fabrics such as tweed and quilting! My dream is to sew with Harris Tweed, which I bought in Edinburgh last year. Is it possible to do it like this?
Sew Along 2020! Finish with Ribs
June 26, 2020
Wide rib tape that arrived for the first time from Merchant & Mills last year. There is such a cute one! I remember being moved. You can buy plain ones in Japan, but stripes and exquisitely colored knit ribs are rare.
This is the first time I have tried sewing knitted fabrics since my child was born. When I tried it, I was surprised at how easy it was. Oh my God, T-shirts are so easy to make.
First of all, even if you cut it, it will not fray. But if you want to get rid of it, you can use a zigzag sewing machine, but bias tape! If you have a knitted bias tape, it will be faster anyway. You can make it yourself, but I prefer to buy it.
The only caveat is stretching. Apply stretch tape to the curve.
Make sure the needle is for knit fabrics, and the thread, either the top thread or the bobbin thread, is for knitting. If the slide is bad, there is a Teflon retainer, but in most cases it is not necessary.
This time, I purchased a pattern that finishes the neckline with ribs. Now I want you to join me in Sew Along.
All the staff are excited to make this Fielder. The combinations of linen and rib colors are endless! What should I do~.
Sew Along 2020!
June 25, 2020
I can knit sweaters, I can make summer tops, and the only thing I buy now is jeans. Just as I was thinking, last year Merchant & Mills released a pattern for jeans. I bought this thinking that I had no choice but to try it, but I was timid and put it aside for a year.
But this year, I will finally make it!
Click here for the template
And we also sell sets of buttons, zippers and threads
Start by choosing your fabric. I wanted to make jeans that looked like the real thing, so I searched for denim fabrics at a company in Okayama, Japan's jeans production area. there were!
This is the company. all blue. It's a fabric maker, but you can also buy it individually.
According to the pattern, if it is up to 12 ounces, it can be done with a home sewing machine, so I selected 12 ounces. I bought a type without selvedge, but it seems easier with selvedge (a type where the width of the fabric is thin and the selvage can be used as it is) because you don't have to use a zigzag sewing machine.
By the way, I chose this one without selvedge. I was looking for denim that doesn't stretch.
Here we come! The denim fabric that looks like a real thing has arrived. What should I do? and left for several months. However, I made a bold decision during the consecutive holidays in May. I thought it would shrink, so I had some leeway in the length. The length of the pattern can be adjusted, so I shortened the length by referring to my normal jeans.
Well, one of the reasons it took me so long to start sewing was because I didn't know how to use the threads that were in the kit. The kit contains 3 types of thread. As a result of research, I found that the thickest part is the front, the thin part is the bobbin (and the front of the finer parts), and the black is only on the back or where it is not noticeable. I feel like I can.
I used #16, the thickest needle I had, and it worked smoothly. However, after looking into it, it seems that there are also needles for jeans. A single needle might break, so I got this just in case.
The Merchant & Mills pattern recommends making it out of plain cotton, but I ended up sewing it all of a sudden. I tried sewing a little with leftover cloth, so it seemed like it would work at all.
Anyway, iron on 1, iron on 2. I would like to proceed carefully after folding it properly. I will post the progress on my blog!
For those of you who are a little hesitant. I found a website that publishes the actual process of making jeans, so I will introduce it. Looking at it makes me want to make something.
Part 1 and Part 2 of the process introduction of a company that makes quality denim
http://www.e-workers.net/store/old/24/p3.htm
http://www.e-workers.net/store/old/24/p2.htm
A video blog of a fashion boy who started making denim because of his hobby
https://note.com/yasuhirojimba/m/mc7e925a9b8f6
They both seem to be using industrial sewing machines, but to reiterate, 12 oz.