The reversible Dorothy Top that was introduced in the WALNUT newsletter the other day.
I used the method of double-stitching the folded down seam, which is used for the sides of denim pants.
By doing so, it looks beautiful from the front and the back.
It's a great deal because you can enjoy different patterns and different atmospheres in one piece.
Left is the front, right is the back. The direction of the tuck changes, so the silhouette at the back also changes slightly.
Here's how to make it! Also have the original Dorothy's instructions handy to get you started.
1. Prepare a reversible cloth
Atelier Brunette Gingham , which is also used in the sample, is available at amirisu.
One side is a small gingham check and the other side is a large gingham check. Soft touch with double gauze. It's comfortable and I recommend it.
2. Correct the template
Follow the steps below to extend the shoulder and side seam allowances.
① Extend the hem line
② Draw a straight line from the bottom of the cuff that intersects the extension of the hem at right angles.
③ Extend the upper cuff line by 1.5cm
④ Extend the collar line by 1cm
⑤ Widen the shoulder line by 1cm
⑥ Don't forget the notches on the side tucks!
3. Cut and prepare bias tape
It's reversible, so you don't need to cover the collar or hem.
Instead, the collar and hem are biased. Make some bias tape.
Hem bias tape width 3cm (6, 8, 10) (12, 14, 16) = (138, 142, 146) (150, 154,158) cm
Collar bias tape width 3cm (6, 8, 10) (12, 14, 16) = (65, 65, 70) (70, 75, 75)cm
Please refer to this video for how to make it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RapxZIYFeDU
0:45 How to make bias tape
4. Stick stretch tape on the shoulders and sides
Double gauze fabric moves and is difficult to sew. In order to finish it neatly, it is safe to stick the stretch prevention tape.
① Draw a finished line on the side of the front body with a chalk pen that can be erased later.
*The finished line is 1cm inside from the outline of the original paper pattern.
②Along the finished line, stick stretch tape on the side
③ Paste it on the shoulder
Do this for both right and left.
Well, from here on, I'm basically going to make it according to the instructions. Extract the parts that differ from the instructions and the parts that need attention.
Let's start with Step1.
5. Side tuck (Step1-2)
【change point】
The tacking machine should be sewn not 0.5cm from the edge of the fabric, but 0.3cm outside the finish line.
6. Tuck the hem (Step1-3)
【change point】
The length of the stitch stop is 2cm, not 3cm.
7. Cuff processing (Step2)
【important point】
The cuffs are long because the pattern has been modified, and the angle at which the cuffs connect to the sides is loose, but don't worry about it.
*It is OK if the edge of the tri-fold stitch is 1 cm or more outside the finished line.
8. Sew the shoulders and sides together (Step3)
【change point】
The shoulder seam allowance is 2 cm.
In addition, I did not zigzag the two pieces together and changed to the following procedure.
① Open the seam allowance and iron it
② Cut the back body leaving 0.5cm seam allowance
③ Fold the seam allowance of the front body 1 cm
④ Fold the seam allowance of the front body to the back side and stitch 0.1cm from the edge.
The side is almost the same, but the width of the seam allowance varies depending on the size.
Sew together the finished lines and cut the seam allowance to 2cm.
9. Processing the collar and hem (Step4, Step5)
【change point】
I don't give feedback. Treat with bias tape instead.
You can put the bias tape on either side, and it doesn't matter which way you attach it.
The sample looks like this, I used a small checkered bias tape on the main body with a large checkered pattern.
It's cute even if you put the same big check bias tape on the big check pattern. as you like!
