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Making Heroine Jeans (Part 2)

July 01, 2020

Heroine Jeansをつくる (その2)

a little secret

Today, I'd like to introduce some tips and tricks that I learned while making Heroine Jeans.

・Try with 11 to 12 ounces first

As a serious jeans lover, I wanted to buy thick selvedge denim such as 14 oz. At this time, I think it's probably better to avoid stretching. At 12 ounces, it's about as thick as a pair of spring/summer jeans.

・Read the size chart carefully

Based on the size notation, I thought it would be 10 if it was me, but I decided on 8 considering the finished size. It was perfect. As for the length, I thought about how many centimeters to shorten it, taking into consideration the finished dimensions and the jeans I have (I thought it would shrink if washed, so I made it a little longer).

・Hardware kit from Heroine is recommended

It contains the necessary threads and zippers. This thread was easy to sew. I think. Zipper length is perfect.

・Different use of thread

The kit includes dark blue for sewing inconspicuous areas, and gold thick and fine count for visible stitching. I took out the jeans I had on hand step by step and carefully observed how to use them properly. It's troublesome to change the thread, but if you sew with the wrong thread for that part, it won't go well.

Basically, the upper thread is thick for areas that stand out or where you want to make it strong, and the other areas are thin on the top and bottom. Thinner around the zipper is enough. I used navy blue on the back where it's not very visible, but this is probably a matter of personal preference. I looked at my jeans and found that the navy blue thread was used in various ways.

By the way, the fine zigzag stitches, called Bartacks, weren't clean at all on my home sewing machine, even though the jeans I bought were made with thick thread. Thanks to that, I had to remove the belt loop many times with a ripper and start over.

Since thick thread is used and the fabric is thick, a sewing machine needle for thick fabric is absolutely necessary.

・How to sew Bartack

I used a fine thread with a width of 2.5 mm and a length of 0.3. However, when backstitching, the length of the back stitch is set to 0.4. When I returned it at 0.3, it became too thick, and the sewing machine sometimes got stuck.

・I can't do automatic buttonholes (it was a waste of time trying to solve it)

I practiced with excess fabric many times, but when I tried to make a buttonhole with a waist belt, it didn't work. I ended up undoing the buttonholes about four times, even though I didn't rework most of them while sewing the pants. It seems that the surrounding fabric is too thick, and the buttonhole holder gets caught in various places, messing up the sense of size. I ended up sewing the buttonholes by hand. If you search the net, you will find many ways to do it. Since it is cut and overlocked, it was more beautiful than a sewing machine.

・Sewing machine preparation

It seems that most of the causes when the sewing machine doesn't work well are dust. Knowing that, I recently opened the inside and cleaned it. Denim frays easily and creates dust, so first clean the area around the bobbin to prevent excess dust from accumulating.

Then there's the foot pedal. Actually, it's been about 2 years since I bought my current sewing machine, and I've been sewing with just the buttons at hand (the start button is right above the needle, so I can do it with just the buttons), but just a few weeks ago, I finally started sewing with the pedal. bought. I think it would be better to have a foot pedal to sew denim.

Continue with (Part 3).

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